West Papua, also known as Irian Jaya, in eastern Indonesia is home to around 300 tribes, each with it’s own language. At it’s center lies the Baliem Valley, approx 60km long, 15km wide and surrounded by mountains on all sides. It was during an expedition in June 1938 that American zoologist and philanthropist, Richard Archbold, first sighted the valley on an aerial reconnaissance flight. Several tribes in and around the valley are classed as Dani people who to this day continue to live the traditional way of life …

Iyokdagak proudly posing in front of his Honai

The majority of Dani people still live in traditional circular, thatched-roof huts called Honai, built within an extended family complex amid spectacular scenery. The older Dani men still wear nothing but a few simple head, neck or arm adornements made from shells, feathers or bone, pig tusks through the nose, and a penis sheath called a Horim made from a cultivated gourd which is held upright with string tied around the waist. They live in a different hut from the women & children, only visiting the women’s hut for sex.

Upon entering the complex of Iyokdagak, a Dani elder in the village of Mulima, I felt like I had stepped back in time. He greeted me with a traditional long handshake, mainly to allow himself time to really ‘feel’ my hand, but also because he had never been visited by tourists before. He was honored that I had chosen him to spend time with, a feeling which was of course reciprocated.

He told me some fascinating stories during our time together and it was a privilege to meet someone so proud of their culture.

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 talking inside the Honai he reflects on the past

Inside the dark, smokey hut Iyokdagak tells me about the days when he was a young warrior and how he took eight lives whilst head hunting and fighting in tribal wars over land, women and pigs, just a couple of decades ago. His social status was measured by the number of wives and pigs he had and was once the husband of six wives, paid for with hundreds of pigs. This is still very much that case today and many men value their pigs more highly than women.

Before Iyokdagak was married he had several joints amputated on his left hand as a mark of respect for family members who had died, one of the more unusual Dani customs which is now prohibited along with tribal wars and cannibalism.

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a close up of his amputated fingers

Although the Dani practiced cannibalism and other customs well into the 20th century, as documented by missionaries, their way of life is changing rapidly, under threat from encroaching modernity and globalization. I plan to return to the Baliem Valley in the not too distant future and whether the traditional Dani lifestyle has changed for Iyokdagak & family, only time will tell.

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with his beloved pigs at his side Iyokdagak waves goodbye.