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WINTER AT PHUGTAL – Zanskar Valley, Ladakh
Winter at the 12th-century Phugtal Monastery (in the Zanskar region of Ladakh) is a time of profound isolation, enduring spirituality, and extreme survival. Perched inside a cliffside cave overlooking the Lungnak River, the 800-year-old monastery transforms into a frozen honeycomb surrounded by temperatures plunging to -35°C. Built around a natural cave believed to have been visited by sages, scholars, translators, and monks over 2,550 years ago, offering an ideal retreat for meditation and solitude.
Experiencing this season at Phugtal is an extreme endeavor. Around 70 monks continue ancient Buddhist teachings and daily rituals in the monastery throughout the winter. The resident monks rely on carefully rationed supplies, sunrooms for heat, and a small amount of solar power (installed in 2016) to navigate the dark, freezing months.
Life isn’t purely dormant; the winter months mark significant cultural periods, including the Gadam Nagchod festival (early December) and the Smonlam Chenmo (end of February). Supplies to the monastery were traditionally transported by horses, donkeys, and mules during the warmer months, while in the harsh winters, they were hauled across the frozen Zanskar River.
